It seems that the male trend this year moves away from the eternal debate tie or bow tie? And sure in the Goya on Saturday also l to answer is almost unanimous: bowtie ‘of course’. El ‘dress code’ says it clearly but there are those who still do not know it: in a tuxedo, a black bow tie, with a white bow tie and in both cases a bow tie, and those in a clip … they are for an informal look. Beyond the protocol are your desire to innovate: from materials, sizes, colors or patterns to replace it with a tie. So they can say that they do not have a place to choose.
If you are looking for the perfect bow tie to wear with a tuxedo, forget about the clip
The codes of dress have always had everything very measured, although over time they have relaxed so much that they have even forgotten. If there is someone there who still cares, the bow tie that is worn with a tuxedo has its own rules, and they are not few. For those who want to follow them, here they are: the first and foremost is that the bow tie should be knotted, those that are hooked with a clip are not worth even if you do not know how to tie the knot. Ask for help if you need or you are looking for life on the internet.
The perfect color is the ‘midnight blue’, a darker color than the black itself, the fabric should be silk, just like the lapels of the jacket and in terms of size and shape, there is much to talk about.
Size matters … the size of your face, the one on your lapel and the one on the collar of your shirt
If you are going to throw yourself into the world of the bow tie you may be interested to know that there are three types according to their termination: butterfly, those worn by Luis Medina and Mario Casas, diamond tip, Quim Gutiérrez and straight, the latter is left like a rectangle once tied.
In terms of size, in the case of length, the criterion proposed by the New York tailor Alan Flusser can be followed: the ends of the bow tie should be between the outline of the face and the beginning of the eyes. Regarding the width, it must be proportional to the size of the flap and the collar of the shirt: the more flap more bowtie and vice versa. As for the shirt, it’s another forest that you have to get into.
Let’s talk about the collar of the shirt: it must be rigid and without buttons, please
Although there is a wide variety of shirt collars, to use with bowtie three of the most common are Italian, English and opera collar. The choice of one or the other depends on your features and, of course, on the protocol.
The Italian neck is the one worn by David Beckham, it is characterized by having the blades very separated and projected towards the sides, keep in mind that if you have the long face it will look more square. The English collar, the one used by Orlando Bloom, is perfect for the bow tie because having the shovels more closed and projected downwards, it gets the birdie to take center stage. The opera neck, which projects upwards with the tips of the blades downwards, is the one that, according to the strict protocol that no one else fulfills except Cristiano Ronaldo, should be worn with a tuxedo and with a tailcoat.
But when the bow tie is not going to party, almost all the rules change
Neither black nor silk nor of certain proportions. If there is no protocol you can skip the rules, fortunately, because in a matter of bow ties the offer is immense. There are those who only manufacture in silk, like The Seelk -with prices that are between 50 and 60 euros- and who, like Bond & Burlington, have united to the silk fabrics like tweed, wool, lace or tergal – with prices that go from 35 to 60 euros-.
The bow tie has become the perfect substitute for the tie, whenever you look for a style between modern and ‘preppy’, that’s why many designers have specialized in its manufacture. One of them is José Zambrano, who went from making collections for gentlemen to dedicate himself exclusively to the world of the bow tie, or Las Pájaras, who make exclusive models for those who reuse old tie fabrics, also admit custom orders: you send them your tie and they turn it into a bow tie.
And the big brands: from Paris to New York passing through Russia
Of course, big companies like Michael & Bastian in New York, Armani, Dsquared2 or Dolce & Gabbana in Italy, Lanvin or Valentino in Paris, Loewe in Spain and practically all brands that have a line of tailoring or accessories for men, They have their own collection of bow ties. Their prices are usually between 100 and 300 euros, which is a trifle if compared to the expenditure that must be done for a complete ‘look’ of any of these fashion houses.
Anecdotal is the alliance between the signature of ties and French bow ties Maison F and the brand, also French, of Russian caviar Petrossian. Together they have created a capsule collection of two bow ties, Beluga Imperial and Beluga to dry, made in silk satin and adorned with feathers, which are presented in the 750 gram tin of caviar. Their prices -nearly caviar- vary between 186 and 697 euros, and although they were designed as a Christmas gift for special customers, both brands have decided to market them.